Modern machine-made lace often uses Leavers looms, named after their intricate pattern capabilities:
Thread setup: Warp threads (vertical) and bobbin/weft threads (horizontal) are loaded onto the loom, sometimes totaling thousands of individual threads
Jacquard control: Holes in punched cards (or digital equivalents) guide hooks and needles to weave precise motifs.
Execution: Skilled operators ("tullists" or "twisthands") attend looms during production, which may take days to set a single pattern.
Once woven, the lace is prepared for its final color:
Pre-dye check: Strips of lace are inspected and cleaned.
Dye vat: Using reactive, acid, or disperse dyes suited to the fiber (nylon, polyester, etc.)
Process control: Time and temperature adjusted for desired hue; dark shades need longer immersion.
Abundant rinsing & drying: Lace is rinsed, dehydrated, stretched (“setting”), and dried to lock in color and shape .
Post-dyeing, the lace undergoes refinement:
Clipping: Workers remove tiny connector threads left by the weave that bridge motifs.
Scalloping: Decorative edges are shaped by hand or machine for classic finishes like Chantilly or eyelash lace .
Tailored uses (like lingerie panels) require precise cutting:
Manual or automated: Patterns are cut with scissors or die-cut tools; textile laser cutting is increasingly used to prevent fraying by sealing edges with heat
Precision tools: Laser systems and ultrasonic cutters deliver clean edges without distortion .
The last steps polish the product:
Inspection: Lace is thoroughly checked for defects and repaired as needed
Setting & softening: Lace often receives chemical finishes to improve drape, strength, and hand feel .
Packing: After testing and trimming, it's folded/rolled and shipped for garment construction
Design & pattern coding (via pantograph → jacquard card)
Weaving on loom
Quality check (pre-dye)
Dye bath + setting
Trimming (clip, scallop)
Edge cutting & sealing
Finishing & chemical treatments
Final inspection & packing
Controlled dyeing ensures colorfast, gentle hues suitable for intimate wear.
Precision cutting prevents fraying along seams in bras and panties.
Edge scalloping adds both structure and beauty to cups, waistbands, and trims.
Softening finishes ensure comfort against skin and preserve elasticity.
